Familiar rides at a familiar place. Video by Ryan Hackbarth
Malibu (like for a lot of southern california surfers over numerous generations) holds a very special place in my heart and in my surfing journey. Ive probably spent more time surfing there then anywhere else, even to this day. Its crazy to even think or say that because I only spent 5 years surfing there. If I wasn't at first point every day I'd be at the various other small points I grew to love so much. I moved to Los Angeles when I was 23 years old. I have been surfing since I was 13. But majority of my surfing from age 13-18 was when we would move to Ocean City for the 3 months of summer break every year. The winters we moved back to Baltimore for school. 18-21 I lived in Wrightsville Beach, NC going to University. I finally was able to surf every day, but being in college had its own distractions -- and the inconsistent nature of the east coast meant my energy not always spent hunting surf but exploring other creative avenues.
I owe a lot to Surfrider Beach. Met some of my closest friends and have had some of my most memorable and peak surfing experiences there. It feels kooky to call it "home" but I really never connected with any spot prior like the way I had with Bu.
I barely spend as much time as I used to there, but any time I get to go back I can't shake the feeling that it feels like home.
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same as it ever was
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| We've come far Mr. Kim |
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| Learned a thing or two from this freak... |
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| my little boy got a new fancy wetsuit |
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| Mr Asshull in flesh. |
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| Sarlo watching Zac |
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| Zac watching Sarlo |
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| A Liddle goes a long way... |
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